Sunday, 28 December 2014

2.11.14 No electricity - Power and Darkness strikes again!


Electricity still out until approximately 2 pm when we switched on the generator and the actual electricity didn’t come on until about 4 pm!  Gave David 2,000/- for airtime to get hold of the storyteller again today.  Maybe able to go to the witch doctor in the morning and the storyteller in the afternoon if David can arrange it.  So that Tuesday is bronze pouring day and goat supper for all, along with Rocca paying us a visit to the foundry.

Today finished the ‘Giraffe’ book – so sad it was awful!  Later on typed up more diary.

The dove is still trapped in the sitting room from yesterday – Perlucy tried to catch it but it banged into the skylight again and looks poorly.  The bat came in for a while tonight again – spooky as it flies around in circles.

1.11.14 Re-grouping day


Yesterday couldn’t get hold of the storyteller, so David trying to get someone to get a message to him on foot – he is now out of mobile contact.  So Plan B was getting a few basketry items to take home as David had some business in town. Two were 20,000/- each and one was 25,000/-

Today it is raining hard and David not around so managed to do a few emails and type some more of the diary before the electricity went down again.  Looks like a day to myself – so until l can get back on the computer it looks like reading.

Interviewed Jacob for the workshop form but he really doesn’t have a lot to say about contemporary art in its broadest sense, however interesting to get his views.

Looks like someone from the British Council will come to the talk l will be giving on Wednesday at 32 Degrees East, Kampala.  Rocca the director has made a good poster using one of my images from the witch doctor’s basket of tricks/medicines for the website.

Eria, the other artist in residence, said the acronym for PhD was ‘permanent head damage’ which was amusing.  He is was thinking of going for a PhD, so l shared my experiences with him.

Electricity now out from 11am til 9 pm and still out! So reading more of ‘Giraffe’.

David turned up at the gallery at about 4.30 to 5 pm with some visitors from Pearl of Africa Safaris, who didn’t buy anything except a couple of sodas, so David had a bit of a wasted journey in some ways and he seemed a bit fed-up that he had to pay the petrol, although paid over time to come in.  He said he had to pay 80,000/- to get this cattle back from a neighbour who seemed to be blackmailing him – although it seems they tried to steal the cattle at least two nights on the trot before today and he didn’t do anything about it.  The dog is still missing and again he just thinks he will get another one – poor thing lonely, lost, unloved and unfed!  He is still not getting through to the storyteller and has in fact today lost the storyteller’s number!  Also suggested asking Buluka about the old graves and whether he has seen or knows about any that we can see, considering he is an elder of a village near here. 

31.10.14 'Night Dancer'!


Rats in the roof last night were scary and sounded like they were going to drop down on me.  It was like the ‘Night Dancer’ had visited!!”

Typed up more of the diary this morning – sunny until 1.15 but now it is raining cats and dogs and we are supposed to visit the storyteller up a hill!  Apparently when it’s wet in Uganda people feel it is not worth going to work!  This according to David is quite usual!




30.10.14 Interview 5 - Muramura and Cement Graves


Electricity still off so cannot get internet.  Asked Jacob to buy a goat for Tuesday evening for everyone before l go home to UK – 150,000/- including sodas.

David going to invest four more Jon Buck totems so that all the investments can go into the kiln, so we will go out after this to see the Muramura graves and take photographs.

Interview 5  Grave Owner
Name: Enzironi Kambale
Born: Kakuka Village, Bundibuoyo, now lives in Kyemihoko and neighbour to Rungwe Kingdon and the foundry.

Death ritual: He cannot remember the history of the death rituals. He said they sometimes used a wild boar hole a long time ago to bury people in.  The body was wrapped in bark cloth because it can last for a long time, at least 50 years in the ground.  He related that the body would be laid straight and horizontal going back as long as 200-300 years – this was maybe some exaggeration, as this informant was known to have some mental health issues.  About 214 years ago they used the muramura plant and would sometimes put a fig tree on the grave.
They used muramura as it doesn’t grow very tall over a long period of time, although the fig tree is taller and can indicate from a distance that this is a grave.  It can signify that more people are buried there, not just one person but each has a muramura ring surrounding it.
Enzironi said he liked using the muramura rather than cement, but the whole congregation of the Christian church wanted him to erect a cement grave for his daughter who was the second child to die in the family – the first child to die in the family had muramura but the church insisted that he also gave the son a cement grave at the same time he was making the second grave for his daughter.  The first grave to his son, Buluku Edison (died 28.12.07) was a policeman killed on duty and his first born.  The second grave to his daughter, Kabunjho Scovia (died 25.01.14) was killed on the road by a car as she was walking along, who was his fifth child, the third daughter in line.

In 15 years he had not been to the witch doctor, as he says they are great liars.

After the funeral the usual ceremony for him was to invite people back to have something to eat and sing a few Christian songs and then people would go back home – unlike the traditional funeral rituals which were told to me by the elders previously.  They are buried in their clothes and now wrapped in bed sheets.  The first of his graves was just an earth lining, whereas the second one was lined with bricks and then plastered with cement.

He doesn’t believe in bad spirits and believes you go to heaven, but will go to hell if he believed in bad spirits (traditional spirits).  He said he wanted to become a Christian, and that nobody bribed him to be.  He thinks this religion is perhaps the better one (rather than face to face religions eg. traditional). Traditional and Christian religions both tell you untruths but it is simpler to just deal with one.  When told about how some of the churches bribed people with clothes and food to affect conversions, he says, ‘it is better to be with your wife than seek fame and fortune in Kampala and be alone there.  He rather has less money and be happier, as life is not about riches’.  

Sometimes the translation may go arye or sometimes the respondent does not necessarily fully understand the nuances of the questions asked.  This informant was a bit unstable, so it was difficult for David, who knows him, to get him to focus.  The photos of the graves will be useful to see as documents of how the traditions are changing and adapting.  He gave us lots of avocados to take away.

Today David told me he thought he had a ‘Night Dancer’ as he found his dog had been untied and let loose and the cattle shed lock had been taken off and thrown away – sounds like someone wanted to steal his cattle again.  But apparently he found his lock thrown away again before this, so he thinks someone is trying to tease him – hence the ‘Night Dancer’, which is sent by a witch doctor to send someone mad.  Told him he should either inform the police (not such a good idea as they want money, even to be told!) or l said make a witch doctor’ type of stick and plant it outside the cattle shed – l think he was quite interested in this idea, being the cheaper option, although he didn’t want to be known as dealing with witch-craft!!! Catch 22!



Tuesday, 23 December 2014

29.10.14 Colobus and Blue Monkeys in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest


Couldn’t believe the mountain l climbed yesterday….seems like a dream!

Left the Golden Monkey at 8 pm and took the muram roads back to Kasese which were nice as we went through Biwindi Impenetrable forest for a while and saw two blue monkeys and a family of colobus which were magic!  Also saw baboon and vervets on the way home through Queen Elizabeth Park although we weren’t actually in it or I would have had to have paid – a bit disappointed l didn’t see climbing lions though.  Saw a small snake wind across the road and a squashed monitor lizard, a Marshall eagle, crested eagle, hammerkops, franklins, and guinea fowl (helmeted).

Had a packed lunch by the side of the road which was more enjoyable than a  cafĂ© in the little town of Kihiki – where Johnson picked up some rice from his aunt.  Really rained when we got back to Kasese – nice to be back and have a decent shower, see Perlucy and Drongo and have a usual salad and fruit.  The electricity is down again and has been off all night.